Your Car 101 (Series) - What does it mean when they say my vehicle has a misfire?

If your car is running alone in almost a jerking motion, then you may hear from the mechanic that your car has a misfire.  Or maybe you have a check engine code reader that is displaying Cylinder engine misfire.  What does that truly mean?

So basically, whether your car is a 3, 4, 6, or 8 cylinder (or more), there is a specific sequence in which each cylinder operates.  Why?  By alternating when the cylinders produce power, it allows the car to move forward in what feels like a seamless motion.  Let's back up a bit and look at what happens in each cylinder. Each cylinder goes through 4 stages, also called a cycle in the car world.

In the 1st cycle, the intake valve opens, and air enters the cylinder.  Also, fuel is sprayed as a fine mist and the rod moves down to fill the cylinder.

In the 2nd, the rod in a natural motion moves up, compressing the air and fuel mixture.

In the third, the spark plug ignites the air/fuel mixture, shoving the rod down, and producing the power that moves the car.

And lastly, the rod then moves back up, pushing the spent fuel out of the cylinder as the exhaust valve opens.

Image Credit to http://www.makingdifferent.com/

All of these events have to work in the perfect sequence in all cylinders.  If all cylinders ran at the same time, then your car would have 100% power during the third stage without any additional power until stage 3 came around again.  Imagine sprinting for 1 minute and taking 3 minutes to slow to a stop then hit a full sprint again. That would be hard on your body, just as it would be bad for the car.  Not to mention a very uncomfortable drive.  The goal is to alternate the cylinders so that it would be closer to a 4 minute jogging period, evening the power throughout the drive.

Now back to the misfire.  When your issue is labeled as a misfire, one of the components caused the third stage to not happen.  Either air or fuel or spark isn't making it into the cylinder.  This could be caused by a number of things, including but not limited to a clogged fuel injector, bad spark plug, or even a severed spark plug wire.  Through this, the mechanic can run through a process of elimination and isolate the problem at hand.

Dyed, Metalized, Hybrid and Ceramic Window Film. What's Best?

Each of the four types of film is named because of the primary component used to protect you and your car.  With so many options, which do you choose?

There are a lot of benefits to using window tinting; glare reduction, heat protection, fade protection, U.V. protection, safety, aesthetics, privacy.  You will have to decide, what you are wanting your window tint to do.  Window tinting is simply adding a layer of UV treated optical grade polyester film.  That film can be manufactured in several ways, not just in the components mentioned in this article, but more specifically how it is made.

Dyed Film
This type of window tinting relies on the absorbing properties of the dye to keep your car cool.  Because it does not contain any metal it gives your automobile the blackest look and does not have any "sheen" to it.  This film rejects the least amount of heat and is mainly used for its appearance.  It does reduce glare, and reduces fading to interior upholstery.

Metalized Film
This film is a good product for customers that desire crisp appearance, heat reduction, glare reduction, fade protection, and UV protection.  Metalized window film are either all metal or have a single layer of ceramics.  Metalized window tinting is very good at reducing heat and reflecting UV rays.  However, they are very shiny and can cause interference with radio, GPS, TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) sensors, and cell phones.  Its shade and color are mainly determined by the type of metal used to make it.  Metalized window film's purpose is to reflect.  These are rarely used anymore after the introduction of the TPMS.

Hybrid Film
Hybrid films use a combination of a dyed layer as well as a metalized layer.  Using Hybrid window tint offers the best of both worlds. A metal layer is used for its reflective qualities and a dyed layer is used for its absorptive qualities.  Because not a lot of metal is used by some manufacturers, these are the best bang for the buck as they don't block any of the signals the 100% metalized films do.

Ceramic Film
The fourth and final type of window tinting is ceramic.  Absorbing twice as much heat as dyed or hybrid films, it is considered to be the most technologically advanced type of window tinting.  It is capable of high heat absorption at relatively light shades.  It is definitely the ultimate in heat reduction; however, the cost is almost twice that of Hybrid films.  This film is optimal for customers desiring a highly durable material, with excellent clarity, and providing superior heat reduction versus other film choices.

It's easy to think that all lifetime warranty films are alike.  Many get caught up in the trap of comparing pricing rather than the film quality.  Be careful.  Some companies may install the dyed film rather than the hybrid, selling it at a lower price but actually making a higher profit.  Also, note thicker film may take up to weeks longer to dry out than other film choices.  Ultimately, it comes down to the purpose for getting your windows tinted.

- Bryan Lin | CEO, The Motorsports Authority, Inc. | MSAStore.com

Your Car 101 (Series) - How do I know my brakes need to be changed?

Bad Brakes?  DIY on checking your brakes.

There are two ways you can go about this.  The easiest is to look at your brake reservoir (assuming all other part are working correctly).  Let me explain...

Option 1

Do you remember your first bicycle with the hand brakes?  It had two little pads that pressed against the front or rear wheel.  Your car really isn't that much different.  Each rotor has two pads with it, and the rotor is fixed to your axle.  So when your wheels are turning, so is your rotor.  When you want to stop, the two pads press against each side of the rotor, bringing your vehicle to a stop.  The difference between your car and that bicycle is the car uses brake fluid whereas a bicycle uses a cable.  When you pulled the cable, the two pads would press against the wheel.  When you push your car's brake pedal, you're pushing fluid out of the reservoir, through the brake lines, and telling the brake pads to push against the rotors.  Make sense?  Ok...here's the key factor.

Each time you apply the brakes, you lose a certain amount of brake pad.  Depending on how you drive, it'll be more or less.  However, when you release the brake pedal, the pads only move back from the rotors a certain amount every time.  This is good, because the pads don't have a large distance to travel to slow your vehicle down.  However you have less pad now and less goes back in the reservoir.  Therefore, as the brake pads wear down, so does the fluid level in the brake reservoir.  

Now for the "watch out for"s.  First, remember where the fluid is to begin with.  If you don't, you can't tell if your fluid level is dropping.  Your brake master cylinder is the big part on the back wall which the brake reservoir is attached to.  That could possibly be going bad as well.

Option 2

This is the fun part.  Option two is jacking up your vehicle and removing the wheel and tire.  Once removed, you can look into the brake caliper to view the brake pads.  You can tell with your eyes whether your pads need replacing. 

Option 3

If you have access to a lift, you can put the car in the air without removing the wheels.  Sometimes (especially if you have larger wheels), you can still see the pads.

Recommendations

Do NOT wait too long.  If you hear a grinding noise or feel through the brake pedal that there is metal on metal contact, it might be too late.  See...when the pads get down to the point where the metal in the middle is exposed, the pads then start grinding into the rotors and putting grooves in it.  This is very bad for new pads and will accelerate the wear of any new pads.  Also, with it not being a flat surface, the pads will only come in contact with part of the rotor and that can affect braking distance and capabilities.  The results?  New rotors, which typically starts around $50 each corner.  Changing them on a regular schedule and keeping an eye on the pad's wear will save you some money in the long run.

- Bryan Lin | CEO, The Motorsports Authority, Inc. | www.MSAStore.com

Your Car 101 (Series) - My Car Died, What Happened??

My Car Won't Start!

There's a few things that could cause your car to die.  I'd say 85% of the time it's your battery.  My sister was caught stranded once, and her car wouldn't start again.  Turns out, while waiting on help, she kept her headlights and radio on...for an hour.  When she went to start, it just made clicking noises.

Click, click, click

So...a sure way to tell if the cause is your battery is when you begin to start the car, it tries but just makes a lot of click click click noises (this applies to most modern vehicles since the starters are now electronically controlled).  Sometimes the dash and radio lights will dim.  The car may even make a slight slow engine whine. (Gets slower the more you try to start the car.)  That's because the starter is trying to turn but there's not enough power to rotate it fast enough to start the car.

Clanking Noise

Now...if there is a loud clanking noise, that's not a good sign.  Some in the motor has come loose or broke.  I'd have to taken to a mechanic you trust at that point.

Battery is good!

There's no clicking.  The whine is pretty quick, so the engine is trying to turn.  It's just not firing up! 

1. The car may not have enough fuel in the motor.  This could be a result of the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator...basically anything related to getting the fuel to the motor.  If you're a novice at replacing or checking these components, I'd recommend taking it to a trusted mechanic.

2.  The other end of the equation is that the car needs fire to light the fuel.  This gets the motor turning.  The ignition or coils, spark plugs, and spark plug wires are all part of this system.  The quickest check is usually the spark plugs and plug wires.  If you're a novice at replacing or checking these components, I'd recommend taking it to a trusted mechanic.

Car starts, but quickly dies

If the car starts, and then dies...there are various other issues that may be going on here.

Vacuum lines.  Most motors have a handful of silicone hoses.  Heat will deteriorate these over time.  A leak in this system will allow the motor to start, but then somewhat quickly dies.  Sounds like there's a slight hesitation before shutting off.  These can be difficult to find.  If you're a novice at replacing or checking these components, I'd recommend taking it to a trusted mechanic.

Finale

There are other reasons that a car would die, but they will most likely require a trusted mechanic to track down.  Hopefully, this provides you a quick overview of a small things that might could be happening.  This however, is NOT the end all be all.  The advice given above is just to help educate you on the possibilities that most shops would check first. 

- Bryan Lin | CEO, The Motorsports Authority, Inc. | www.MSAStore.com

Your Car 101 (Series) - BEWARE of the Impact Gun...when having others put wheels on.

More and more these days, people are beginning to do it correctly.  However, there are still some shops that continue to use an impact gun without reservations.  Let me explain.

Be Cautious.  Ask Questions.

Impact guns have a lot of power behind them.  Enough power to break wheel studs.

All too often have I observed tire shops who put the wheel on the car and just start synching the lug nuts down on the wheels.  Although, most still do follow the "star" pattern, there are still the possibilities of cross threading or tightening the lug nuts waaay too tight.  (Each wheel, whether a 4 lug, 5 lug, 6 lug, etc... has a specific pattern that optimizes the changes of centering a wheel correctly.  Cross threading is where a nut is put onto a bolt slightly sideways thus flattening out the threads...rendering the wheel stud useless.) 

Another problem is just plain over tightening.  Have you ever or seen someone struggle with taking lug nuts off with their spare tire kit?  Over-tightening can make it almost impossible to remove a tire without using an impact gun again. 

Today's Tech

These days, a lot more dealerships and tire shops are becoming more conscious of the torque (the amount of force applied to tighten) being applied.  The simple fact is that in the past, you did risk the change of breaking the wheel studs.  But today, manufacturers are cutting costs and making products right at the limits.  So over tightening has a higher chance of breaking than before. 

There are two different types of tools they can use.  First is a torque wrench.  Basically, lug nuts should be put on by hand initially (prevents cross threading), then with an impact on LOW torque, and in the correct pattern.  Once on the ground, a torque wrench can be set to the factory setting so that lug nuts do not get over tighten.  A torque wrench clicks and stops, telling the technician that this is as tight as the lug nuts need to go on.  A torque wrench should always be used when the vehicle is on the ground.

Second is to use what's called a torque stick.  Torque sticks are basically extensions that are manufactured to twist at a predetermined torque.  The technicians has to pay attention to the stick and the lug nut to make sure it's not accidentally overtightened.

They both work.  A tire shop should already have a reference guide to the torque settings of each vehicle and should always torque vehicles rather than just "throwing" wheels on with an impact gun.  Good luck!


- Bryan Lin | CEO, The Motorsports Authority, Inc. | www.MSAStore.com